Undulations of gentle hills on all sides, a cool breeze stroking your face as you tread soft green grass on your way to the lake; nature’s wonderful creation will fill you with amazement.

 

Come spring and palash trees add a striking new depth to the scenic beauty of this area with their fiery blossoms. The orange-red horizon transfers its hues to the abundant palash trees, which are in full bloom. You are surrounded by the full spectrum of plush green and then the red bloom adds a psychedelic headiness. The call of the cuckoo and the cry of the peacock complete the ambience.

Such beauty is divine and uncommon. All that is asked of you is to soak in as much as possible. There couldn’t have been a better drive-out destination for Team WHEELS to celebrate the onset of spring than the beautiful Khairabera, Purulia’s personal little paradise.

 

Route
Team WHEELS hit the roads at around 7 am, heading for Vidyasagar Setu to enter Kona Expressway and connect to NH-19 (NH-2). Within a short span, after passing through Dankuni, we drove into the 6-lane Durgapur Expressway (NH-19).

 

After a halt for breakfast, we resumed our drive and passed through Bardhaman, followed by Durgapur and Asansol – following the NH-19 (NH-2) by the newly-constructed Panagarh Flyover and the elevated roads over Durgapur town. After 16 km from the entrance to Asansol town on the left below a flyover - we entered the service lane on the left, leaving NH-19 (NH-2), to reach the Salanpur-Chittaranjan crossing. From Salanpur, we turned left towards Purulia and entered Chittaranjan–Asansol Road to proceed towards Raghunathpur. At the Neamatpur T-junction, we took a short right followed by an immediate left to continue towards Raghunathpur by the SH-5. We continued by the beautiful SH-5 with proper lane marking and superb surface condition to zoom through Parbelia, Neturia, Raghunathpur and Anara to reach Purulia town without any twist or turn. After passing through the congested stretch of Purulia town, we continued to follow SH-5 – driving towards Balarampore and Baghmundi towns. Within a short while, we entered SH-32 – a beautiful and well-maintained road as the earlier stretch and crossed Kansai Bridge to reach Tamna Morh. From Tamna Morh we continued straight towards Balarampur and Baghmundi (turning left from Tamna would connect Ajodhya Hilltop through Sirkabad). Proceed straight to reach Balarampur followed by Baghmundi and Charida village – famous for mask-making. From Charida, proceed another 6 km to reach Korang Morh to turn right towards Khairabera Dam. And finally follow the last stretch of a narrow concreted road passing through Burda village to reach Khairabera. The total distance of Khairabera from Kolkata is 375 km, that would take around 7 hours by road.

 

Khairabera
The enchanting Khairabera is popular for the Khairabera Dam and a huge water reservoir. With a length of 372 m and a height of almost 21 m, the dam built across the Subarnarekha Basin is an irrigation dam amidst hills and forests at Baghmundi, about 70 km away from Purulia town. This dam was completed in the year 1989 by the I&W Dept., West Bengal Government. Owing to its exquisite natural beauty, Khairabera has been developed as an attractive tourist spot.

 

 The place has a vast water body, with crystal-clear water at the foothills of Chamta Buru of the Ajodhya range. It is this water body or lake across which the dam is built. The water from the Machhkanda Falls meanders through the hills and enters the lake, creating a spectacle. It is an ideal setting for sitting by the shores of the lake and staring at the soft ripples made by the wind or taking a stroll on the banks.

This water is used extensively by the villagers. We even spotted a few fishermen plying their trade with boats and fishing nets. When we visited Khairabera, the water was 70-80 ft deep. However, we were told that during the monsoons, the water level rises beyond what can be imagined and overflows the banks. This upsurge changes entirely the appearance of the lake from gentle to tumultuous, both gorgeous in their own way.

Chamta Buru is the tallest peak on the Ajodhya range, about 2000 ft high. Trekking all the way to the hilltop demands time but is rewarding, especially after you discover a small lake on top of the hill. Be warned, it may take anything between two to three hours to reach the top, depending on whether you trek or you take the narrow pathways on the hill frequented by the villagers.

And if you thought, Khairabera is all about peace and tranquility, you may try visiting the cave called Badri Lapang, for a bone-chilling experience. The most wondrous aspect of this cave is that it is pitch dark and thick with bats at the entrance, naturally barring human entry. However, if one does brave the odds and manages to enter, it is thrilling to see how the cave opens up on both sides. But we do not recommend visiting the same.

 The musically-named Jhiling Shiling, is a hill overlooking the dam. The hill shelters several tribal villages at various levels. Team WHEELS visited one such village, Patadari, and could not stop marvelling at the tribal mud houses decked with colourful paintings.

 The forests are home to a large variety of wild animals such as deer, wild boars, elephants, porcupines, peacocks and numerous other birds, which transports one to the heart of wild nature. Discovering the picturesque waterfalls, trekking around the azure lakes guarded by hills, experiencing local tribal culture while strolling through the villages, bird-watching and sky-gazing, all these make Khairabera a treasure trove for nature lovers and photographers.

Accommodation

Eco Adventure Resorts

The most obvious choice of stay for anyone visiting Khairabera is the Eco Adventure Resorts. Developed on the banks of the Khairabera Lake, this resort incorporates the natural beauty that Khairabera is, with the hills as the backdrop and the tranquil lake in front, creating a mesmerising ambience. The soft velvety lawn, the cooing of the cuckoo and the red bloom of the palash add to the intoxication.

The resort is augmented by five luxurious tents and three ambient cottages, a dining hall and office blocks.

The tents are for the adventurous brave-hearts. While the super delux tents portray an old-world charm with their beautifully carved double bed, a cozy seating area and a tastefully done dining area for two along with an attached bathroom with modern amenities, the other tents exhibiting relatively less flamboyance, nevertheless make for a worthwhile stay.

 

The cottages, on the other hand, are meant for those looking for a conventional accommodation. Both the tents and the cottages are very tastefully done up, keeping in mind the profile of the guests, to give them a superior experience for the time spent in the resort. The open verandahs of the cottages make way for a picturesque scene with the beautiful lake in front surrounded by hills. We sat there for hours together luxuriating in the fresh air as much as we could.

 

As night descended, the surroundings turned chilly. We lit a campfire on the lawn and set up a small barbeque. The fresh timber crackling and popping under the starlit sky, felt out of this world. Little did we expect that a bigger surprise awaited us when the manager, Suprakash, announced that he had organised a night safari for us in the hills diagonally opposite to the resort! Words cannot explain what a thrilling experience it was spotting a hare, a porcupine and a deer during the drive when the local assistant suddenly focussed the searchlight on those animals. As we reached the top of the hill, we were stunned to see – of all things – a huge football ground! – surely one of the most unlikely things to be found on a hilltop. We couldn’t stop marvelling at the clear night-sky and felt a child-like excitement on being able to locate some of the constellations and the Pole Star – a rare experience that our city-life cannot spare.

To keep noise pollution at bay and to ensure that the wild animals are not disturbed in their natural habitat, television sets have not been installed either in the tents or in the cottages. For the same reason, guests are not allowed to play loud music during their stay at the resort. However, there is one TV in the dining hall. Another important aspect is that smoking is prohibited in the tents and cottages.

Food
There is a common dining hall, away from the tents and cottages, where the food is served. The resort has a fresh kitchen garden which is the main source of the organic produce that serves the in-house kitchen. The food at the resort is excellent, both in terms of the quality of the ingredients and the preparation, but the portions fell a little short of our anticipated quantity. They serve mainly Bengali, pan-Indian and Chinese cuisine. They also have a few continental options and a variety of snack items to choose from. The prices range between `100 and `390 per dish. Service is quite impressive.

Other attractions
The tribals are very cultured and ritualistic as can be seen from the number of festivals they celebrate round the year. During Poush Mela (sankranti) and Mahadev (Tusu) Mela, the tribals organise a big fair in front of the gate of the Eco Adventure Resort. You can witness cock-fights, Chhau dance, Santhali dance, Jhumur and Bugibugi dance and many other tribal attractions in these fairs. 

Kushal Palli Luxury Resort
Another place to put up at if you are visiting Khairabera is the exotic Kushal Palli. This place is about 40 km from Khairabera and located on top of the Ajodhya Hills. A small detour from the main road near Baghmundi and you will land up at Khairabera. The drive from Kushal Palli Resort to Khairabera is worth all the effort.

 

Built on 3.5 acres of land, Kushal Palli is replete with architectural exuberance and exotic accommodation. At Kushal Palli, the very definition of luxury has transcended the confines of the traditional perceptions. It has set a very high standard for itself in terms of personalised services and quick business retreats for a weekend getaway.

They have two specially designed dormitories for ladies and gentlemen, namely ‘Mayuri’ and ‘Mayura’. They connect discerning travellers to the singular luxury hospitality experience that meets their life and style preferences.

 

Facilities
Kushal Palli is splendid with its multifaceted options such as, 'the Village' – the multi-cuisine restaurant, ‘Riddim’- the night club, ‘Valley’ – the exquisite ballroom and ‘Bliss’ – the revitalising spa.

 

'The Village' is a multi-cuisine restaurant open for almost 18 hours a day and offers an eclectic all-day dining menu including Indian, Continental and Chinese cuisine. The breakfast menu comprises of a wide range of popular Indian, South Indian and Oriental preparations. Music lovers can chill with drinks in the 'Rock Bar.' Apart from the spa and the cultural programmes, all other facilities are included in the luxury stay at the resort.

 

Akash Hilltop Resort
A rather modest accommodation as compared to the others, this resort is situated at a very strategic location – the top of the Ajodhya Hills. The resort has 4 luxury tents and 10 rooms in all. The food available is typical Bengali and some pan-Indian cuisine. The service here is decent and the rates are pocket-friendly.  However, unlike the other two resorts, Akash does not provide the additional facilities. For people visiting Ajodhya, and looking for budget accommodation, Akash Hilltop Resort is a wise choice.

 

Coming back from Khairabera, we made good time on the highway, but we got impatient being held up at the traffic grid on Kona Expressway at Santragachhi. It seemed as if we waited for an eternity for the traffic to ease up. Overlooking this, Khairabera has been a rare experience which will remain etched in our memory for years to come.

Charida
Anyone visiting Khairabera has to travel through Charida – a nondescript village, with shops on either side of the main road selling exquisite masks. If you fancy handicrafts, you must visit Charida to view first-hand the artisans adept in crafting the Chhau mask. Watching them paint the masks with skilled hands is a sheer joy. These masks are most sought-after owing to the popularity of the Chhau dance. According to Babu, a local artisan, they make a decent living by selling masks which are in high demand throughout India. Also in demand are the Kathakali masks and the pair of heads of a tribal man and woman.

Activities at Eco Adventure Resorts

Kayaking                        (9 am – 4 pm)    Rs 250 per head – 1 hr
Badminton                     (9 am – 8 pm)    Rs 150 per head 
Volleyball                        (9 am – 4 pm)    Rs 100 per head
Archery                           (9 am – 4 pm)    Rs 150 per head – 1 hr
Mountain Bicycling        (9 am – 4 pm)    Rs 300 per head – 2 hrs
Angling                            (9 am – 4 pm)    Rs 150 per head – per rod
Campfire                         (6 pm – 10 pm)  Rs 500 per bundle of wood