Waking up to the murmur of the dancing river waters and the happy warbling of the twitter birds we walked onto a cool airy balcony. The sun was still reluctant to emerge from its veils of fog and mist – and so were we, from our plush abode amidst a thick forest. The dense woods set in the hills shone resplendent with emerald green foliage that swayed seductively in an inviting manner. On a far off treetop, we heard the flapping of the wings of a pair of hornbills ready to take off. In such a setting, a cup of Darjeeling was called for. The steamy aroma of sun-kissed tea leaves filled up our senses and woke us out of our delicious languor. Care to join us? Drive on with Team WHEELS if you do, to the surreal Lulung resort at Simlipal.   

River, forest, hills – bounties of nature

 

Soft cascading waters of the Palpala river

ROUTE
Less than 6 hours drive meant starting as early as 8:00 in the morning from Vidyasagar Setu where our tripmeter was set to 0.0. We glided smoothly along the Kona Expressway and took the slip road on  left to enter the NH-16 (NH-6) to proceed towards Kharagpur. At about 9:00 am, a half an hour halt for breakfast at a roadside eatery and we were good to continue with our journey. At tripmeter 116.0, we had arrived at Kharagpur Chowranghee Morh from where we took the second exit that heads straight towards Lodhasuli. The butter-smooth tarmac, the dual carriageway and the lush green stretches of sal on either side of the highway was succour to our jaded city souls. 

Pithabata Gate – one of the entry points to Simlipal Forest and Lulung

 

Under the greenwood trees

At tripmeter 166.4 we took the service road on left going towards Feko Morh to connect Gopiballavpur and Baripada. From Feko Morh, take the SH-9 and go over Subarnarekha River and drive straight upto Hatibari Morh. From Hatibari Morh at Gopiballavpur, turn right and enter the Gopiballavpur Road connecting Baripada Town. Drive for another 35 km till you reach the Murgabadi Chowk at Baripada Town. Go under the flyover and thereafter take the left Y-fork and reach the KC Circle at Baripada Town. Go over Burhabalam River, passing Poda Astia village. The drive from here is through forested village roads. 
As we drove along the beautiful roads admiring the light woods with occasional open fields on either side, we passed a village called Rangamatia, whereafter our connection with the urban was abruptly snapped. "This is the first step towards being one with nature – no network zone," exclaimed Chief sounding  happy. 
Soon we arrived at the Pithabata Gate, which is one of the entry points to Simlipal Forest in Odisha. Here, we got our car registered before we could proceed to the resort. Negotiating the narrow laterite rugged pathways of the forest following the signages enroute while marvelling at the tall trees with umpteen shades of yellows and greens, we finally arrived at the entrance of the Lulung Aranya Nivas. 

Team WHEELS enroute to Lulung         
 

The red blushed Kusum tree at Simlipal Forest

LULUNG ARANYA NIVAS
If serenity could be given a form, then here it was – tranquility personified – I thought to myself as I stepped out of the sedan. The impeccably curated landscape of the resort made a style statement and yet the effect was so subtle that it seemed to blend seamlessly with the wilder, more unharnessed nature that lies in close proximity. A quick round of formalities and warm greetings with welcome drinks at the splendid Aranya Nivas and we were ushered into our beautiful riverside cottages. After a quick wash, we walked down to the delightful dining hall where a pan Indian buffet awaited us. From salad to desert, it was a tasty affair. The chef’s special mutton curry, which was lip-smacking delicious deserves special mention.
Spending time in the lap of nature can be so soothing – and that's exactly what we experienced after our drive to Lulung. Post lunch, we lazed on the lush green lawn. The sweet scented flowers surrounded us in posies and bursts of gorgeous colours, the murmur of the river and the chattering of the birds filled the air. ‘Spring, the sweet spring...’ or is it ‘Spring round the year when nature is left to itself – undisturbed..’ I wondered! 

PALPALA RIVERSIDE
After tea, we strolled down to the riverside. We sat on the craggy banks of the narrow Palpala river and watched it flow over rocks and stones and disappear into the woods. We watched in awe as the sky lit up with a hundred unbelievable shades and the sun set far behind the hills. Soon darkness fell upon us. The wind blew soothingly. The smell in the air was intoxicating. And then as if in dolby sound effect, we heard millions of insects buzzing and squeaking – creating effects you would expect to find only in horror movies. Suddenly, I felt something brush past me. Chief apprehending that I might scream, gestured to me to stay calm. I had a tough time holding my panic in. And as it passed by, a few metres away from us, we realised that it was a giant squirrel, a very common species in Simlipal. 
With senses primed to highest pitch in tune with the nocturnal activities of the forest, we quickly lost track of time. Sitting on the river bank in the moonlit evening, we had almost  washed off every inch of stress that our civic life had bestowed upon us. Soon a guard came looking for us. That is when we realised that we had to get back to our secure abode. Leaving the allure of a forest that turns dangerous by night was a bit of a wrench. Later, excitedly we shared our fascinating experiences over snacks and drinks with other guests in the resort.
Dinner was a lavish buffet spread. Post dinner, a walk around the property to temper the gluttonous intake was deemed a good idea. We went out into the enormous ground, passing the tall trees, the tree house, the well mown lawn and the cobbled pathways. And all along, the resident dogs accompanied us as our friendly guides. We retired to bed early, as the next day had been reserved for the eagerly awaited forest trek.

FOREST TREK
I was woken up by a massive banging at my door. Captain had come waking us up for it was already past 6 and our guide was waiting to take us on our forest trek. We quickly got ready and headed out. 
Initially we walked along a narrow laterite track bordering the Palpala river with the Simlipal Forest engulfing us as we went. We occasionally stopped to admire the river and the beautiful flora and fauna while the photoholics amongst us got busy clicking pictures of several rare species of aves that nonchalantly flaunted their vibrant colours. The guide was able to identify most of the birds both from their colours as well as their sounds. 
After walking for nearly a kilometre, our guide abruptly entered the forestland which did not have any apparent pathway. We momentarily hesitated but eventually followed him through the dense forest, thus relishing every bit of this rare adventure. Crushing the dried leaves underfoot, beating away any branches that came our way, we trekked our way through the thicket climbing upwards for more than 500-1000 metres till we came to a clearing. We realised that we had actually made it to the top of the hill. The place wore an exotic fragrance, the same scent which we had found so intoxicating the evening before by the river.

Lulung Aranya Nivas – an exotic experience bang in the middle of Simlipal Forest

 

The entry to the resort is 4 km from Pithabata Gate inside the forest

On inquiring, we learnt that the smell was that of Mahul (mahua) and that the place abounded in Mahul trees. We picked up the fresh flowers that had fallen from the trees and tried a few of the sweet ones. Interestingly, it left a very sharp aftertaste. Villagers came with pails and buckets to collect Mahul from the forest. They dried them in the sun, brewed and made their favourite drink from it. 
Suddenly, we heard a sound similar to the grunt of a deer. We ducked and hid to see a deer run past us at some distance. "Nothing could be more thrilling than watching an animal in its own natural habitat," whispered Chief.

LULUNG VILLAGE
We continued along the trail now coming down the hill and finally arrived at the tribal village called Lulung. 
Lulung village is spread out over a pretty large area and comprises nothing less than 80 houses. The villagers depend heavily on the forest for their sustenance. We sat in one of the tribal homes and quenched our thirst with their potted water. The man in this house works as a gardener at the Lulung resort. Walking for another 1500 metres or so we finally arrived at our resort. 
We were mighty hungry by now and so after a quick freshening up we hurried towards the breakfast buffet. The rest of the day was spent lazing by the poolside. 

SITAKUND AND BALIDIHA DAM
Post lunch we drove to a place called Sitakund. To reach Sitakund, we had to drive till Pithabata Gate from where we had to take the immediate right turn and drive for about 2 km. We parked the car in an open area and walked for about 100 metres.
Arguably the most photographed waterfalls in Simlipal, Sitakund is a sight to behold. With its 30-foot tall punchbowl waterfall spilling over the top of a rock ledge into a deep turquoise pool, Sitakund looks splendid and inviting. Somehow, we resisted the temptation to take a dip in the chilly natural pool water. We marvelled at the surrounding rockside that loomed dark and forbidding. The rock ledge is deep and tall and allows you to walk behind its water curtain. We however, recommend you refrain from doing so.
About 11 km from the resort is the small nondescript Balidiha Dam constructed by the Maharaja of Mayurbhanj in the year 1912 for the purpose of irrigation. Built on the Palpala river, the dam can help irrigate about 10-15 acres of land, as told by the locals. Watching the sunset from there was rather beautiful. 
Back at our resort, we spent the evening in the quietude of our rooms. There was an uncanny silence hanging in the air. We had absolutely zero connectivity for two full days. We easily realised how much toxicity technology had brought into our lives. We also realised, no matter how much we try to stay away from technology, in today’s world we cannot survive without the same. Hence a forced periodic detox is the key. And Aranya Nivas can be instrumental in providing a turnkey solution.  

A cosy cottage – Lulung Aranya Nivas

 

The entry gate to forest safari adjoining the resort

 

Young tribal geeks at Lulung village

ACCOMMODATION
It is impossible to think of a star-rated 14-acre property in the midst of a deep forest. Lulung Aranya Nivas ticks all the checkboxes. Aranya Nivas is more than just a resort. Set amidst the beauties of the forest of Simlipal, the resort is meant to provide its guests with an avenue to experience the forgotten beauty of Simlipal. Despite staying in a forest, one can enjoy a luxurious stay. The resort also boasts a pool room, badminton and volleyball courts, a plant nursery, a star-gazing centre and a well equipped library to cater to your literary needs.  
With its fine resort suites, Aranya Nivas is a forest lover’s dream come true. The cottages are spacious and very tastefully doneup. The reception area along with the dining, banquet, pool, and a set of cottages flanks one side. Each cottage has a balcony which opens up to the forest. 

The inviting waters of Sitakund

 

The inviting waters of Sitakund

The dining hall lies across from the cottages and overlooks a grassy lawn. Walking barefoot on the lawn in the early morning hours is therapeutic. There is also an open air dining area outside the dining hall designed for a pleasurable gourmet experience under the trees. A huge banquet hall lies adjacent to the dining hall for the evening film shows. 
On the other side of the property  is a set of cottages overlooking an enormous meadow. Here you will find a children’s zone with a tree house. A walk on the grassy land or on the cobbled pathways under the large shady trees provide umbrella comfort that would soothe the most unquiet thoughts. One might be accused of waxing lyrical but it truly is charming! 

FOOD
The place serves excellent Indian food. The local Mayurbhanj cuisine finds a special mention in their menu. That apart, they are good with improvising on the pan-Indian cuisine. 
Early in the morning, after a filling breakfast, we had to bid adieu to our lovely habitat which we had learnt to value in more ways than one. And yes, the parting with the forest was with a very heavy heart. As the sedan pulled away leaving traces of tyres on the laterite pathway, I said to myself, ‘abar ashibo phirey..’
The rest of the journey was smooth and spent in pin drop silence till we reached Rangamatia. And then, of course, the emails, WhatsApp messages, mobile calls and more kept flooding in. Continuous calls from family members, inquiring about our whereabouts, business calls, sales calls and the like intruded, took over... With a resigned sigh we surrendered. It was back to our urban jungles...noise, friends,... after all ‘life’s like that’…I sighed! I guess a gem remains rare when it is perched just that nanosecond out of reach. Would we be so immersed in the experience if we were to wake up to jungle every day? Wouldn’t we long for citylights and moviehall popcorn? Somehow, I wonder…

Escape to nature – Lulung Aranya Nivas

 

The swimming pool blending the blues and the greens

 

The family cottage – Lulung Aranya Nivas

 

The restaurant – Lulung Aranya Nivas

INFO BOX
Jungle Safari in Simlipal Forest can be done in 
3 different ways: 
1. From Pithabata Gate (by local car syndicate)
2 From Lulung Ayanya Nivas 
3. In personal vehicles
CAR SPECS REQD FOR JUNGLE SAFARI
Car Type: SUV
 Minimun Ground Clearance: 188 mm
Engine: 2000 cc and above 
(Forest Guide to be hired)  

SIMLIPAL JUNGLE SAFARI 
 Duration: 10 hrs   
Time: 8 am to 6 pm
No. of persons in a vehicle: 6 - 7
Rate: Rs. 5000 - 6000
Meal: Enroute (on prior booking)  
Closed during: June - September  
Places to visit: Barehi Pani Falls, Joranda Falls, Chahala Falls, Gurguria Orchid Park
Best time to visit: November – March
An observation: 
Team WHEELS could not find a single mosquito during its stay at the Simlipal Forest