As a young child growing up in a middle-class Bengali household of Calcutta, the adventures of Satyajit Ray’s Feluda and Professor Shonku along with Saradindu Bandopadhyay’s Bomkesh and Narayan Gangopadhyay’s Tenida formed part of my staple diet especially during school holidays. And if truth be told, among the duo of razor sharp, intellectual sleuths and an exceptionally gifted scientist, I was more drawn towards the character of Tenida. This was perhaps because he seemed the more relatable and funny; qualities which made him rather endearing. So when Team WHEELS recommended this eco home stay in Kakrajhor called Char Murti - which is a tribute to Tenida, I simply couldn’t wait to check out the place.
Tenida
For those of you who are not familiar with Bhajahari Mukhujje, fondly referred to as Tenida, here is a quick introduction. Tenida is a fictional native of ‘Potoldanga’ in Calcutta, who appears in a number of short stories and larger works of the legendary Bengali author Narayan Gangopadhyay. The leader of a group of four young lads who lived in the neighbourhood of Potoldanga, Tenida was depicted as the local big-mouthed airhead, who, although not blessed with academic capabilities, was admired and respected by the other three lads for his presence of mind, courage, and honesty - as well as his vociferous appetite. The narrator of the stories is Pyalaram, who seemed to share his leader’s frailty in academic exertions. The other two characters who formed an integral part of the quartet were Habul, who speaks with a strong East Bengali accent (Dhakai) and Kyabla, the cleverest among the four.
Route
So with my bags packed and Narayan Gangopadhyay’s Tenida Samaghra in hand, my team and I set out on yet another road trip on the road less travelled. Our choice of wheels for the trip was a Maruti Suzuki Alto K10, the proud possession of our photographer. We reached Vidyasagar Setu at around 8:00 am and set our trip meter to 0 kms. Starting early always has its own advantage as we would encounter less traffic en route to reaching the Kona Expressway. At the end of the Expressway we took the slip road on the left and followed the left bend to meet NH-16 (NH-6) towards Kharagpur. We stopped by at the Azad Hind Dhaba at Uluberia for a hearty breakfast. After savouring delicious poori sabzi and steaming cups of tea at the dhaba, we were all set to resume our journey. We continued straight on NH-16 (NH-6) towards Kolaghat, followed by Kharagpur. From trip meter 113 km, we took the left onto the flyover towards Kharagpur Chowringhee Morh. From the huge traffic roundabout at Chowringhee Morh at Kharagpur, we took the second exit and proceeded straight. We kept driving straight on NH-16 (NH-6) towards the Air Force base at Kalaikunda. After crossing Kalaikunda, we continued straight towards Guptamoni Morh.
At trip meter 150.2 kms, we left the highway and entered the service lane for Jhargram. Within a few metres we had taken a right turn and took the underpass below the flyover to enter SH-5 connecting Jhargram. From here, we noticed a dramatic change in the demographics. The wide spread greenery of Lodhasuli Forest and the clean, fresh air infused with the fragrances of eucalyptus, mahua and wild tulsi was intoxicating. We reached Jhargram and drove through the main city. The main market area is quite congested and it is advisable to drive with caution. We proceeded towards Dahijuri Morh followed by Silda Morh to enter Belpahari. You are bound to be swept off your feet with what awaits you in the forest in this region. Dotted with trees on both sides of this silken thoroughfare, the scenic beauty and the drive are nothing short of breathtaking. I can assure you that you will thank me for recommending this. After crossing Bhulaveda, one must keep driving cautiously on the rural road for another 15 kms before arriving at the Char Murti Homestay on your right.
Kakrajhor
Kakrajhor is a virgin country side with valleys, hillocks, jungles and rivulets. The place gets its name from the words ‘kakra’ which means hills and ‘jhor’ which means forests, together depicting a landscape surrounded by hilly land and dense forests. Kakrajhor is surrounded by trees and comprises 9,000 hectares of hardwood trees including kusum, shaal, segun, mahua and akashmani. Cashew nuts, coffee and oranges are also cultivated here. Kankrajhor beckons one into the land of the fairytale. The full moon winter nights are ethereal and hypnotic, as Kakrajhor resonates and reverberates with the throb of adivasi drums. The rhythmic beats of the madol waft in from the surrounding tribal settlements. If you will just sit back and gaze at the star studded night sky you will be transported to another world.
Char Murti Homestay
The Char Murti Homestay is a tribute to Tenida and gets its name from the 1978 Bengali comedy adventure film Char Murti directed by Umanath Bhattacharya and based on Narayan Gangopadhyay’s Tenida novel of the same name. It is believed that scenes of ‘Jhantipahari’ where Tenida, Pyalaram, Habul and Kyabla are said to visit in the film were actually shot at Kakrajhor. It is no surprise then that the four rooms of this homestay have been named after the quartet.
A far cry from urban sophistication and luxury, the Char Murti Homestay does not offer any of the modern amenities which are usually available in hotels. The accommodation is very basic and the meals served are hot and fresh but very humble. So do not expect anything exotic or fancy, else you will be very disappointed. You are advised to carry your beverage of choice (read alcohol), munchies, packaged drinking water, towels, toiletries and emergency medicines – because none of these are easily available in the near vicinity.
What Char Murti does offer are neat rooms, clean toilets, fresh sheets, warm blankets and a sense of coming back to the roots in a charming rural setting. So if you wish to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of your urban life and enjoy a couple of days of complete solitude in a rustic simplicity – then this is just the place for you. Phone connectivity is an issue and only Jio or BSNL users get connectivity in this area.
The manager at Char Murti Homestay is a man called Thakurdas Mahato. He is your go-to-man for anything that you need over here. Char Murti has four rooms and two tents (available only during winter) which can accommodate up to 24 heads - Tenida (a 3 bed room), Pyalaram, Habul and Kyabla (5 bed rooms each) and the tents can accommodate three persons each. Package deals inclusive of accommodation and meals are Rs 1300 per head per day for the rooms and Rs 1000 per head per day for the tents.
Things to do in Kakrajhor
Trekking
First-time trekkers have the ideal route for their baptism into the world of adventure - the forests of West Midnapore. Any reasonably fit individual can explore the trek route from Bhulaveda to Kakrajhor.
Meet the locals
You can meet the descendants of Gopinath Mahato, the famous Chow dancer who also acted in the film ‘Char Murti’ – remember the tall dark man with white moustache and gentle smile, wearing a short dhoti above the knees? Incidentally, it is Gopinath Mahato who single-handedly brought Kakrajhor into the limelight. Also don’t forget to visit the local village and chat with the locals over a cup of tea if you wish to unearth the hidden stories of Kakrajhor. They are mostly a friendly lot.
Try the local cuisine
A must try at Kakrajhor is the red ant chutney which is a local tribal delicacy. The ants are crushed in a pestle and mortar with chilli, ginger and salt. The bodies of ants are believed to contain formic acid which is said to have useful medicinal qualities. And for those who like to experiment with the tipple, you could try the local brews – handia (local rice beer) and mahua (made with the flowers of the mahua tree) available in the local village or at the local haat on every Thursday evening.
Bird watching and hiking
The forest is filled with a variety of birds which are bound to appeal to birdwatchers. Keep your cameras handy for you never know what you might capture through your lens. And for those of you who love to hike - there is a myriad of hiking trails amidst the valleys, hillocks, brooks and rivulets which make Kakrajhor a great destination for nature and adventure lovers.
Simply sit back and unwind
Sit in the balcony of Char Murti and allow the fresh air to fill your senses while you revel in some me-time or simply meditate. Sometimes what is necessary is that you not do anything - and just let it all be.
The panoramic valleys and hills, the myriad of birds and trees, the simple rural life, and the mesmerising sunset and starry nights - all this and more make up Kakrajhor’s picture album. Bohemian rhapsody and food for the soul.
In the vicinity
Other accommodations in Kakrajhor - online booking available
For booking Char Murti Homestay
Contact – Get Lost Eco Travel
Call – +91 98368 30342 / +91 98313 09512
Email – [email protected]
Facebook – www.facebook.com/kakrajhor
Login