Strolling along the dark sands of a narrow beach with the growling of the choppy waves constantly assailing our ears, we gaze awestruck at the sea! At first glance 'Gopalpur on Sea' is a modest beach in a small town. And yet the place is popular among beach lovers and supposedly one of the many sought-after destinations of Odisha. In our quest to get off the beaten track and discover the finer nuances, Team WHEELS drove to this quaint little town about 60 km from Chilika. In the southern coastline of Odisha, a little more than 600 km from Kolkata, Gopalpur is a destination with a quiet, deserted beach that can bring you a blessed respite from the humdrum of everyday urban existence.

Route
To reach Gopalpur, start from Vidyasagar Setu and enter Kona Expressway. At the end of the Kona Expressway take the slip road on the left to follow the left bend and meet NH-16 (NH-6). Continue straight on NH-16 (NH-6) towards Kolaghat followed by Kharagpur. Just before Kharagpur (trip 111 km), follow the highway straight and take the left bend through an underpass towards Odisha.

Continue on NH-16 (NH-6) driving over smooth concrete highways with guardrails on both sides. Pass through Belda, Jaleswar and Balasore. You may halt here for a lunch break and try your luck with authentic Odiya meals at one of the many stopovers around Bhadrak and Cuttack.

Continue to drive along NH-16 (NH-6) passing Bhadrak, crossing over Mahanadi Bridge, followed by Cuttack to reach Bhuvaneswar. Drive over flyovers bypassing the Bhuvaneswar town. Hereafter, the drive gets pleasurable, cruising through the picturesque landscape with undulating hills, lush green trees, smooth, wide concrete roads and very low traffic.

Continue to drive straight to pass Khurda, Badaraghunathpur, Chandpur, Balugaon, Barkul, Langaleswar and Rambha with Chilika Lake along your left. Continue on NH-16 to turn left from Chatrapur D.R.D. Bus Terminus just before Gopalpur to enter NH-516. Follow the highway and road signs for another 15 km to reach 'Gopalpur on Sea.'

What was a little disconcerting was that we had to stop at nearly 9 toll plazas between Kolkata and Gopalpur, and shell out about Rs 600 each way, on toll taxes enroute.

Team WHEELS went on a 4-nights, 5-days trip to Chilika and Gopalpur. Hence our journey to Gopalpur began on the third day of our tour, post breakfast, from Swosti Chilika Resort. From Chilika, Gopalpur was a mere 1 hr 30 min drive. If you plan a tour from Kolkata, it is perhaps advisable to select a combo package that includes both the destinations in one trip.

Gopalpur
Crossing the gorgeous Eastern Ghat-section, having driven along smooth gently undulating roads, we were thrilled to glimpse the charming Chilika Lake set against verdant greens from different elevations. A light cooling drizzle further enhanced our spirits as we reached Gopalpur from Chilika.

Tucked into an easy-to-miss nook, 'Gopalpur on Sea' is frequented by tourists seeking peaceful surroundings. What was once a bustling port city is now a retiring, half forgotten shanty town – which comes alive periodically in response to eager visitors in search of the holy grail of brine! As we reached the Swosti Palm Resort at Gopalpur perched near the Light House, we were warmly greeted with garlands of shells and welcome drinks. A sumptuous lunch buffet had been laid out at the sprawling restaurant of the resort which was partaken of with great delight by this party of hungry freewheeling souls.

The Beach
In the evening, we made our way to the beach, which is about 100 m away from the resort. From a distance we could hear the roar of the waves and the breeze rustling through the trees. As we reached the beach, we saw a promenade about a hundred metres long, paved with tiles and railings. The promenade is flanked by a number of concrete benches, long stretches of paved stairs and decorative street-lamps. This is where tourists gather most often to unwind or to simply while away the time. 

 

Unable to resist the temptation of treading over the soft, wet sands of the beach barefoot, we quickly ran down the stairs of the promenade. Once there we were disappointed to find we weren’t able to go into the water owing to the high tide of the monsoons.

The sea was pretty rough and the waves appeared to be tossing themselves against the shore in a desperate bid to get away.  Grit and sand was clawed away as they were irrevocably pulled back out to sea. Innumerable red crabs ran about the beach, playing peek-a-boo with us.

The towering lighthouse painted in red and white stripes, at one end of the beach close to the hotel was an imposing sight. Entry to the lighthouse was prohibited but the view that it provides of 'Gopalpur on Sea' must be breathtaking.

During winters, numerous shanties spring up on the beach. Trinkets and necklaces of shells, crystals, beads are sold at this beautiful beach-fair. Genuine pearls can be discovered here at throwaway prices.

This is when you get a whiff of the aroma of the hot and spicy fried fishes. From bhola-bekti, rahu to prawns and crabs, these fishes dipped in a spicy marinade, fried till golden brown and served hot – are the ultimate carnal pleasures.

After the flavoursome fishy affair-to-remember we took a long walk to the other end of the beach and were excited to see a few row-boats covered with straw thatches, standing deserted on the sands. At the extreme end of the beach, we discovered the fishermen colony with scattered huts and cottages – quite a contrast to the earlier carnivalesque experience. Back at the resort, the dinner was a delicious Continental spread. 

Shri Venugopalswamy Temple
Early the next morning, after a wholesome breakfast at the buffet with ample fruits, fruit juices, toast and eggs, we headed for the temple dedicated to Lord Krishna, the famous Shri Venugopalswamy Temple. Built in the 18th century, this is a South Indian temple with a sparkling white exterior adorned with ancient carvings and a vast gopuram. The deity of Shri Venugopalswamy in the middle with his two wives Jambavati and Satyabhama on either side, carved in black stone, dressed in silken robes and silver jewellery and seated on a silver throne, is magnificent. Acharya Srinivasa Moorty, a dedicated priest, conducts his daily rituals of puja and aarti with deep devotion. We made a darshan of the deity and spent some time at the peaceful temple premises.

Exploring the town of Gopalpur we discovered a few warehouses and godowns that were built during the British rule and which are now in a dilapidated state. The East India Company was compelled to build these warehouses at Gopalpur as this town had become a trading point for rice from Rangoon at that time, we were told. According to the locals, in those days, there were dances and parties that continued on the beach until the early morning hours. Gopalpur gradually turned into a holiday destination for many wealthy Bengali families from Calcutta.

Back at the hotel, after lunch we headed for the beach once again. Hours passed by marvelling at the vast expanse of water. You never really know what's coming – a small wave, or maybe a big one and then it crashes, almost foaming in froth and fury at the temerity of the puny intruders who dare defile her glorious sanctum. But nothing could deter us that day from playing with the surf. It was a perfect day and a perfect place to relax in, to allow nature to wash away our fatigue quite like a mother washes the dirt from her tired child’s feet when he comes home at the end of his play at dusk every day. The following morning, we had to be back on our trail to Kolkata, so we had an early dinner and called it a day.

After grabbing a quick bite we set off from the Swosti Palm Resort – Gopalpur. We were impressed with the efficiency of the manager of the resort who packed us some sandwiches, starters and fruits for the road.

On our way back, we stopped at Hotel Gajanana at Baleswar for lunch. The drive was smooth with little traffic and clear weather. But as we reached the Odisha-Bengal border in the evening, we were faced with lashing rains with almost zero visibility. This delayed our journey by an hour. Eventually, reaching Kolkata was not only a great relief but also brought in excitement as we shared details of the fantastic experience of our trip with our families over dinner.

Accommodation
Gopalpur has a range of accommodation for tourists of all types, from budget travellers to those seeking exotic experiences. If you are looking at a comfortable accommodation with excellent service at a pocket friendly rate, then Swosti Palm Resort should be your first choice.

 

Swosti Palm Resort
When it comes to Swosti Palm Resort - Gopalpur, everything harmonises – an aesthetically designed beach resort, the natural beauty around, warm and well-behaved staff who take pride in providing  excellence in service.

The resort takes care of every little detail that goes into making the stay cozy and comfortable. The rooms are designed and decorated in traditional style for optimal comfort and ultimate seclusion.

Swosti Palm Resort houses 26 well-appointed air conditioned rooms, 2 spacious luxury suites along with conference facilities in a 2-storeyed hexagonal building. They have the finest restaurant in town called the Lighthouse, which serves Indian, Continental, Chinese, South Indian and special Odiya food.

For those seeking a five-star accommodation, Mayfair Palm Beach Resort is a good option.

Gopalpur – an ancient commercial hub, a golden beach, winds wafting cool from across the bay, solitude and serenity amidst tall trees and splashing turquoise waters. Like Ulysses, when you 'mete and dole unequal laws unto a savage race that hoard, and sleep, and feed, and know not you,' you will know you cannot rest from travel. In its vast immensity lies a thousand secrets waiting to be discovered, all the philosophies your heart can hold. And at 'Gopalpur on Sea' you can indulge the child in you as you play in the waters, the woman as you choose a flawless pearl, the man as you look outbound at the freedom of the seas…