The grand old decaying mansions of the colonial British-influenced period of Kolkata stand testimony to the architectural exuberance that once thrived in the city. Equally intriguing are the famous ghats. Standing as a symbol of the valiant gentry who bravely took a stand against the Indigo Tax of the British, is the momentous Ratan Babu - surviving as a Ghat at Kashipur in Kolkata

Route

Moving north-bound from Shyambazar 5-point crossing, go onto Cossipore Bridge, turn left into Khagen Chatterjee Street and then right to enter Kashipur Road. Drive northwards turning left from North Suburban Hospital to enter Ratan Babu Road. Pass by the original mansion of Ratan Babu on the right and park your car just before the bustees on the Chandra Kumar Ray Lane. Walk down the narrow gully to visit Ratan Babu Ghat.

Entering Chandra Kumar Ray Lane, going past a plastic factory, is Ratan KOLKATA ON WHEELS I July 2021 Babu ladies bathing ghat followed by the men's ghat on its south adjacent to which is Ratan Babu Jetty ghat. In between the two bathing ghats is the burning ghat of Ratan Babu's family descendants

According to Pranab Ray of the 7th generation of the Ray family, “the original crematorium built by Ratan Babu is 100 m away from the bathing ghats and is known as the Ratan Babu burning ghat. However, after the cremation of Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa, it was renamed as Ramkrishna Mahasmashan by Bonobehari Ray, Pranab's grandfather. Interestingly, it has Sri Ramkrishna's samadhi with his ashes in a separate room at the burning ghat. Ever since, we have stopped using the burning ghat for our family as a mark of reverence to the great Master”.

The Ghat

The men's ghat commands a view of a large pavilion accented with several colonnades. The lemon paint postrenovation adds a dash of freshness. From the broad flight of stairs in red sandstone the view of Belur Math right across the Hooghly is splendid. The ladies ghat, also in lemon, though comparatively smaller, is equally inviting. The jetty, however, was damaged during the Amphun cyclone and is closed to the public.

History

Ramratan Dattaray, originally Datta, (1785-1860) was the zamindar of Narail in Jessore district, now in Bangladesh. It is said that he had strongly opposed the Indigo Tax of the British. The British, on abolishing the tax on Indigo, honoured Ramratan Dutta by conferring the title 'Ray'. Thereafter his family has used the title 'Ray' as their surname.

Ray Mansion

Ratan Babu’s mansion on Ratan Babu Road is a few metres away from the ghat. It is a massive dilapidated structure on 2 acres of land with a sprawling, illmaintained lawn, once a beautiful garden. The house, already sold, is destined to be demolished, maybe even before this story is published.

Towards the east of the mansion is another grand mansion belonging to the Ray family, built primarily by Ratan Babu’s grandson Pratap Ray. This house boasts a huge Singha Dwar (lion's gate) with the remains of a lion's statue on top.

The mansion rises about 100 m inside the gate and stands on one bigha that once included a sprawling lawn and a grand portico. It is another spectacular construction that also boasted a dance hall with high carved ceilings and tinted glass windows, and is sadly at present in ramshackle condition.

The expansive driveway in front of the house today is packed with numerous small, dingy houses. The three distinct temples of the Rays - the Gopinath, the Shiv Mandir and the Panchmundi Bhabatarini have managed to retain some presence.

Life at the Ghat

The place that once boasted a clean lane from Ratan Babu's mansion leading to the ghat is today a congested locality with few residential buildings. Encroachers and slum dwellers have mushroomed around the pavilion.

If the sight of the crumbling relics of yesteryears have left us aghast at Kolkata's diminishing stature as the 'City of Palaces', we also ought to laud the efforts of the Kolkata Port Trust, KMC and the Kolkata Police in taking the initiative to restore several heritage structures. For our thirsting souls, they are soothing slices of royale from the good old days. We stand indebted to these brave pioneers forever.

The grand old decaying mansions of the colonial British-influenced period of Kolkata stand testimony to the architectural exuberance that once thrived in the city. Equally intriguing are the famous ghats. Standing as a symbol of the valiant gentry who bravely took a stand against the Indigo Tax of the British, is the momentous Ratan Babu - surviving as a Ghat at Kashipur in Kolkata

Route

Moving north-bound from Shyambazar 5-point crossing, go onto Cossipore Bridge, turn left into Khagen Chatterjee Street and then right to enter Kashipur Road. Drive northwards turning left from North Suburban Hospital to enter Ratan Babu Road. Pass by the original mansion of Ratan Babu on the right and park your car just before the bustees on the Chandra Kumar Ray Lane. Walk down the narrow gully to visit Ratan Babu Ghat.

Entering Chandra Kumar Ray Lane, going past a plastic factory, is Ratan KOLKATA ON WHEELS I July 2021 Babu ladies bathing ghat followed by the men's ghat on its south adjacent to which is Ratan Babu Jetty ghat. In between the two bathing ghats is the burning ghat of Ratan Babu's family descendants

According to Pranab Ray of the 7th generation of the Ray family, “the original crematorium built by Ratan Babu is 100 m away from the bathing ghats and is known as the Ratan Babu burning ghat. However, after the cremation of Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa, it was renamed as Ramkrishna Mahasmashan by Bonobehari Ray, Pranab's grandfather. Interestingly, it has Sri Ramkrishna's samadhi with his ashes in a separate room at the burning ghat. Ever since, we have stopped using the burning ghat for our family as a mark of reverence to the great Master”.

The Ghat

The men's ghat commands a view of a large pavilion accented with several colonnades. The lemon paint postrenovation adds a dash of freshness. From the broad flight of stairs in red sandstone the view of Belur Math right across the Hooghly is splendid. The ladies ghat, also in lemon, though comparatively smaller, is equally inviting. The jetty, however, was damaged during the Amphun cyclone and is closed to the public.

History

Ramratan Dattaray, originally Datta, (1785-1860) was the zamindar of Narail in Jessore district, now in Bangladesh. It is said that he had strongly opposed the Indigo Tax of the British. The British, on abolishing the tax on Indigo, honoured Ramratan Dutta by conferring the title 'Ray'. Thereafter his family has used the title 'Ray' as their surname.

Ray Mansion

Ratan Babu’s mansion on Ratan Babu Road is a few metres away from the ghat. It is a massive dilapidated structure on 2 acres of land with a sprawling, illmaintained lawn, once a beautiful garden. The house, already sold, is destined to be demolished, maybe even before this story is published.

Towards the east of the mansion is another grand mansion belonging to the Ray family, built primarily by Ratan Babu’s grandson Pratap Ray. This house boasts a huge Singha Dwar (lion's gate) with the remains of a lion's statue on top.

The mansion rises about 100 m inside the gate and stands on one bigha that once included a sprawling lawn and a grand portico. It is another spectacular construction that also boasted a dance hall with high carved ceilings and tinted glass windows, and is sadly at present in ramshackle condition.

The expansive driveway in front of the house today is packed with numerous small, dingy houses. The three distinct temples of the Rays - the Gopinath, the Shiv Mandir and the Panchmundi Bhabatarini have managed to retain some presence.

 

Life at the Ghat

 

The place that once boasted a clean lane from Ratan Babu's mansion leading to the ghat is today a congested locality with few residential buildings. Encroachers and slum dwellers have mushroomed around the pavilion.

 

If the sight of the crumbling relics of yesteryears have left us aghast at Kolkata's diminishing stature as the 'City of Palaces', we also ought to laud the efforts of the Kolkata Port Trust, KMC and the Kolkata Police in taking the initiative to restore several heritage structures. For our thirsting souls, they are soothing slices of royale from the good old days. We stand indebted to these brave pioneers forever.