Rising from the matted locks of Lord Shiva at Tapovan, or from snowmelt at the confluence of the mighty Himalayan rivers, the Ganges meanders every which way it likes, answerable to nothing but its own will. It flows to then dash across lands and levees, ports and cities, ever growing in volume, speed and strength. The further it flows, the deeper it cuts, gouging canals, conduits, grooves and banks across the landscape. And then, to offset  nature’s  unbridled fury, is seen the hand of the inspired architect in the  Ram Chandra Goenka Zenana Bathing Ghat. The ghat  stoops to conquer. To tame. And to use.

Route
Perched on the River Ganges, the ghat is reachable by Strand Road right beside the Brabourne Road Flyover to the south of Howrah Bridge. Enter the Strand Bank Road through the Strand Road beside the Brabourne Road crossing and walk through the many-hued flower market leading to the Mallick Ghat followed by Ram Chandra Goenka Ghat right adjacent to it.

The Ghat
Standing like a Colossus on the eastern bank of the river Hooghly, the RC Goenka Ghat is one of the most beautiful ghats of the late 19th century built by the business tycoon Ram Chandra Goenka. The ghat is called a ‘zenana bathing ghat’ being meant exclusively for women. With its Islamic style dome flanked by four minars, Goenka Ghat is probably the only ghat in Kolkata which resembles a mosque. The view of this ghat set against the pristine Ganges and the edifices of Kolkata as seen from Howrah Bridge is strikingly beautiful.
As you enter you are greeted by a collapsible gate that was probably constructed later to keep the infiltrators from soiling the ghat. The pavilion, though dilapidated today, is furnished with huge ornate pillars and a carved dome. Wind-breaks and ventilators are placed at different heights with concrete louvres. Seats in concrete are also built for bathers to sit and relax on. The walls in green and white with glazed tiles are embellished with traditional floral motifs accentuated with black and white chequered marble floors – living proof of the fortune that went into its making. 
The number of short angular concrete partitions in the interiors makes for interesting geometry. They  are built in such a way that they restrict a direct view of the river. The walls form two chambers on either side of the pavilion with a semi-circular space at its centre; they were probably erected with the idea that the ladies could come here and change after a bath. The partitions provide ample privacy and also help in circulating the air coming directly from the Ganga. A flight of stairs descends down the ghat colonnade to merge with the river. 

History
The exact date of construction of the ghat remains unknown (probably between 1880-90).
Ram Chandra Goenka was the father of Hariram Goenka and Badridas Goenka – of  the famous Goenkas of Kolkata. Today, their business empire is led by RC Goenka’s great great grandsons Harsh and Sanjiv Goenka of the RP Goenka Group. 
As a leading businessman, Ram Chandra earned a reputation for philanthropy for the work he did all over India, including in his home town Dundlod in Rajasthan where he built the beautiful Chhatri of Ram Dutt Goenka and its adjacent well in 1888. He was one of the founders of the Calcutta Pinjrapole, the very first social organisation of the Calcutta Marwaris, and established a Vidhwa Sahayak Samiti (widow helper association) in 1899. This institution also helped orphans below the age of fifteen. He constructed a guest house at Kalighat which is now a hospice for terminally ill patients.

Life at the ghat
Visitors to the monumental structure, realise that the ghat is still a brilliant piece of architecture both in terms of artistry as well as utility. 
Dumpings from the flower market and encroachments have contributed in a big way to wrecking the aesthetics of the ghat. A couple of illegal constructions around the ghat have also helped destroy its beauty. The ghat has become home to homeless vagabonds, drug addicts and drunkards.
On entering you may find the 16 year old Pikai lying in the enclosure originally meant for women, ranting aloud. With blood-shot eyes and torn clothes, he has already experienced far too much of the seamy side. On days he manages to grab a fag, he sits on the quiet stairs of the ghat and laments over his childhood days in his village. As he dissolves into tears he is often inconsolable. On other days his filthy language conveys his frustrations of being a derelict at 16. 
Is that the reason why the ghats live on?  Is that the reason why the metamorphosis of a bathing ghat into a shelter for the hapless appears more meaningful, more solemn, even more humane?  In their quiet decrepit beauty lies an inherent majesty, a dignity, an ability to enfold. No matter how dark the world may appear, they provide a place of refuge, the unyielding stone warding off the evil eye.
 In the words of the Sufi mystic Rumi  ‘the very centre of your heart is where life begins – the most beautiful place on earth… Don’t you know yet? It is your light that lights the world.' At Ram Chandra Goenka Ghat one can get back in touch with that inner light that one can celebrate life with.