What can be said about the placid, composed ghats of Kolkata that have stood the test of time – that they have been and still remain the landmarks in the midst of all the changes and chances that have transformed Kolkata from a nondescript human settlement into a business metropolis? 
We had an introductory article last month on the Ghats wherein we had promised to take you on a journey along the banks of the enchanting Ganges and amaze you with the mysterious, intimidating, compelling histories of the ghats of Kolkata, many of them centuries old, overgrown with myths and fables. We begin our series on ghats in this issue with a unique one called ‘Ma-er Ghat.’

Location
Ma-er Ghat is located on Rabindra Sarani  in north Kolkata. To visit the ghat, start from Esplanade, proceed north-bound by Chittaranjan Avenue, Jatindra Mohan Avenue, Girish Avenue to go into Baghbazar Street on the left. Meet Rabindra Sarani and turn right to proceed northward beyond the Baghbazar Circular Railway Station. You will find the ghat located on the left, a few metres ahead of Baghbazar station. Cars may be parked inside any side-lane on the right.

The Ghat
Enter the ghat through the magnificent gate sparkling white and grey, built in the colonial style of architecture, adorned with two attractive street lamps on either side. Eyebrows often arch in surprise when, after passing through the gate of the ghat, one has to cross the tracks of the circular railway to reach the ghat. But once inside, you are impressed. The lavish colonnade on the left meant to be a waiting room, the small concrete structure encapsulating the bust of Ma Sarada Devi (wife of Ramakrishna Paramahamsa) in the middle, and the temple-like, quaint place of worship on the extreme right – all in stark white and overlooking the silvery white Ganges makes for a spectacular sight. A broad flight of stairs runs down from the strand to merge with the serene river.

History
Ma-er Ghat was earlier known as Durga Charan Mukherjee Ghat, and popularly recognised as Pagla Babur Ghat. The first reference of Ma-er Ghat was found in Upjohn’s map of 1852-56 as the 6th ghat from the Baghbazar canal, which in 1856 was renumbered as the 3rd ghat. 
According to Loknath Ghosh, Durga Charan Mukherjee was the dewan under the Rajshahi Collector Rouse, Mint Master Harris and Office Agent Harrison. Though the dewan was a wealthy man, people thought it to be utter madness for Durgacharan to spend so much wealth on constructing a ghat and in trying to retain the Babu culture of the city. Hence the name. 
It is also on this ghat that between 1909-20, Sarada Devi came for her daily bath and meditation since her house was located close to it at 1, Udbodhan Lane in Baghbazar. Commemorating her 150th birth anniversary, this ghat has been renovated in 2005 and renamed as Ma-er Ghat.

Life at the Ghat
Once you have found the ghat, you may give in to the urge to go down the flight of stairs leading to the holy river, allowing your feet to flirt with the tidal waves. Or you may simply choose to sit down and surrender yourself to the timeless beauty of the ghat. 
Men and women are seen taking the holy dip before paying homage to Sarada Devi. The sight of children throwing their hands up in excitement as the cool waters tickle their senses is sheer joy. People, irrespective of their age or gender, discard wet clothing  without inhibition, nonchalantly swap it for dry. They offer prayers at the temple and then often head for Ma-er Bari near the ghat. 

Ma-er Ghat oozes spirituality from each of its steps. Sandhya-arati on the ghat is a daily ritual – not to be missed. Every evening after dark, the puja-provisions are unfailingly arranged on an altar as the priest performs the arati offered to the river Ganges. Oil lamps light, conch shells blow, Bengali brides whistle their auspicious ulu, the incense sticks go in rounds, followed by the pancha-pradeep, the feather-fan and so much more; one can sense something electrifying in the atmosphere as the mystic chants reverberate around you – deep and resounding. Devotees surrender to the hypnotic trance, hands folded, heads bent – this is Ma-er Ghat, indigenous yet unique.