After a memorable cross country drive across Vietnam, we reach M?cBài the Vietnam Cambodia border. 

Our Cambodia recce begins. Television being an integral part of my persona, I shall take the liberty of alternately going fast forward and then rewinding back for the sharing of our Cambodian experience. I will try to write about some less-known aspects of this country in this issue. The next part will be when we drive in the rally.
This country has seen the worst during the Khmer Rouge Pol Pot regime. The dark days shockingly stare at you when you visit a school that now is a museum. 

The indiscriminate use of land mines left many handicapped, but the spirit of freedom drives the people to produce some hauntingly lovely music.

 
We shall discuss more of that in another part.

Though it is generally accepted that the  country came to be known as Kampuchea during the worst days of the Pol Pot regime, some historians are of a different belief. Angkor Wat – the largest Hindu temple of the world is here. The Indian influence is obvious and written in stone. The etymology of the word perhaps points to Kambu Muni who travelled from South India to become a legend and the land derived its name from ‘Kambu Muni Pujia’. The Western world, with their phonetic pronunciation limitations changed Kampuchea to Cambodia.

The country has an enchanting history. We meet Mr A C Roy. He is with the Archaeological Survey of India and posted at Siem Reap just a few kilometres off Angkor. He insists we visit the Bayon temples, the Mahendra Parvat or the Phnom Kulen and some other adjoining areas that are being excavated. Mahendra Parvat is a name that appears in the Ramayana which was written more than 2,500 years ago. We visit these and also go to Ta Prohmn originally called the Raja Bihara. Interestingly, Ta means old and Phorm is Brahma. This place is being excavated by Indian archaeologists.

 How can a section of trees completely engulf a temple? And in the forest of large trees lying completely hidden are the remnants of a glorious past.
At the Mahendra Parvat, Buddha and Shiva reside within 50 metres of each other. 

The ‘Sahasralinga’ atop the hill is the place from where water flows into the Angkor temple.

A closer study of the ‘Sahasra Linga’ reveals it as one of the largest specifically designed place for decantation after which clean water flows into the temple complex. Our recce team react differently here.

A balloon ride gives us a bird’s eye view of the great Angkor complex.
 
During the actual rally a few months later, we witness a wonder. Recreated after 900 years, the Bayon temples are lit. And in it, like in years long gone, are the Apsaras.

From my sister-in-law Madhusraba Dasgupta’s researched books ‘Companion to the Mahabharata and the Ramayana‘, I dig out some treasure.

Mahendra – ‘a sacred mountain, rising high with its huge peaks, in a group of pancaparvata – five great mountains, that provided shelter to many illustrious holy men such as Rama Jamadagnya and the siddhas and was often visited by Indra.’

‘Considered as a jewel among the mountains, Mahendra parvata, covered with numerous trees bearing fragnant flowers, was rendered charming by spotless minerals of purple, rosy, white and black hues and was enjoyed constantly by the sporting yaksas, kinnaras, gandharava and nagas. The mighty Hanuman ranged the mountain as he commenced his journey, by taking a huge leap, onto Lanka to seek for Sita.’

And Wikipedia says ... it is here that Jayavarman II had himself declared chakravartin (King of Kings), an act which is considered the foundation of the Khmer Empire.’
And in these idyllic surroundings is the Bayon temple. We see the outline of the temples. And dimly lit, in front, are the Apsaras. The enchanting atmosphere has a magical effect. The Apsaras, even after years of forgetfulness, radiate their astral beauty.

I look up the Ramayana. ‘Apsaras are the charming celestial dancers and sensual entertainers of matchless beauty who emerged in thousands at the time of churning of ksiroda Sagara or the ocean of milk. Born out of the flavour [rasa] produced from the churning of the milky substance present in the water [Ap] of the Ksiroda Sagara those maidens acquired the name of Apsaras. As neither the sons of Aditi nor of Diti agreed to take those effulgent maidens as their consorts, the Apsaras became a general property. They resided in the sky, were of supportive nature and endowed with superhuman power capable of changing their shapes at will and served under Indra. Often the principal Apsara, enjoined by Indra came down to earth to disrupt the penance of a powerful sage and after bearing him a love-child would leave it to be tended by others. On some occasions they would spend a period of time on earth living together with kings indulging in sensual pleasures as man and wife gifting them with offspring...’

In the Mahabharata, it says the Apsaras were ‘divine courtesans. They were born as the daughters of Prava and Kapila by Kasyapa and were placed in the courts of different lords among the devas. The Apsaras were meant to provide pleasure of their unique charm, beauty and skill in dancing and singing.’

Without the ASEAN rally, these jewels of architecture would probably have remained undiscovered. Their charms would have stayed unrevealed, doomed to be forever elusive to this aching adventuring soul.