The month of Ramzan - observed in our country and worldwide - is a period of great devotion and sacrifice. It is also a run-up to the festive day of Eid-ul-Fitr when the month long fasting ends. The festival includes shopping for new clothes, dining and exchange of gifts.

This month, Team WHEELS experienced the magic of this festive spirit in a late night tour of the neighbourhood around Nakhoda Masjid in central Kolkata, soaking in the mood of joy and celebration and partaking in a street food feast!

We started off from the gateway of the glittering Nakhoda Masjid which was at the centre of activity. During the entire holy month of fasting and prayers ending with Eid, the entire neighbourhood of Nakhoda Masjid wears a festive look after sunset. The entire area comes alive with brightly lit stalls selling clothes sitting next to those selling food typical of the Iftar, like dates and sherbets, alongside kebabs and fried items. 

Old and famous establishments like Aminia, Sufia and Bombay Restaurant coexist with the temporary stalls and all run to capacity.

Tradition demands that the fast of the day should be ended with some fruits, dried nuts, and raisins. A bowl of warm milk with strings of sevai and lachha (Indian vermicelli) and sugar soaked in, is another popular, traditional sweet dish.
 
The range of sevai on sale was impressive, ranging from very fine to thick in varied flavours and hues depending upon the area (Varanasi, Lucknow etc.) from which it is said to have originated.

The next step was the meats and breads. And what a range is on offer!

You could taste the 'Suta' (thread) kebab, in which the most finely minced meat were shaped like tubes and wrapped in a thread so that it did not fall apart and then cooked over a low flame. Once done, diners peel away and discard the thread to eat the soft meat.

Chicken Fry was easily the biggest draw. The pieces were marinated in an unusual mix of spices, and then deep fried in a big 'kadai'. The taste is similar to tandoori chicken or tikka kebab but there was a subtle difference - a result of very brief deep frying over a high flame.

Kakori, both chicken and beef, were softer and lightly spiced and hence tasted much better than what is offered as a part of normal fare in restaurants.
The Malai Chicken Fry was an absolute delight thanks to its marinade of a subtle blend of spices that make it buttery yet firm.

Halim, the high calorie broth of lentils and meat, is considered perfect for ending the day's fast. Cooked over a slow, charcoal fire with continuous stirring imparts a special taste and aroma. Halim is a must eat for Iftar. The beef version seemed to be the more delectable of the lot. Served in earthen pots, it is garnished with lemon juice, coriander leaves and green chilies.

An unbelievable range of meat 'chaaps' (tenderised meat strips) were available and the best once again appeared to be the beef version. All varieties were low on added oil, being mildly spiced and as soft as the softest 'paratha'.
 
We were told that the meat is softened with spices and flattened on stone slabs with wood mallets to ensure the 'melt-in-the-mouth' texture.

Khiri Kebab, using the udders of cattle, was another great delicacy - but certainly not for the faint-hearted!

The delectable Boti Kebab was another big draw alongside the Sheek Kebab of minced meat wrapped around a skewer and cooked over a low flame.

In addition, we tasted a fabulous Kaleji-Gurda Kebab (kidney and liver) with the two cooked together into a juicy wholesome offering.
The real surprise was the seafood.

A large fish, weighing between 2-3 kg is marinated and then grilled or fried. We tried two variations – the Fish Malai Fry and Fish Kebab. The taste ranged from a gentle 'malai' flavour to a spicy, hot dish.

A similar range of prawn preparations was also on the offer. The most impressive was the Prawn Masala Fry prepared with a hot spicy marinade with a tandoori flavour, then grilled over a high flame. The diner peels away the shell. The flesh inside retains its pink-white colour but is beautifully spiced and flavoured. An absolute delight!

The range of sweetened breads was both interesting and delectable. The bread varied in sizes, some with a smooth top and others with tops decorated with lines or diamond patterns and sprinkled with crystallised sugars. The taste ranges between neutral to degrees of sweetness.

Not one to miss out on the traditional sweets, we went in for a range that comprised the usual 'mawa', the 'kesar laddu' and the 'badam halwa'.
 
Many of these delights are available at Haji Allauddin - one of the greatest sweet shops of our city located at Colootola Street-Phears Lane crossing.
 
You may try out the 'chhanna kheer' and the 'aflatoon' as well. And don't forget the good old 'firni', the traditional rice custard made with rich creamy milk and served in earthenware with cardamom powder and kesar flavouring with almond and raisin garnish.

Halwa puri is another popular sweet which has puri pieces each filled with a spoonful of 'suji ka halwa' and folded.

A true delight was the ready-made ice-cream. This is served in small cups, using ice cream flakes shaved off from a fast rotating drum loaded with a giant ice cream cylinder about two feet in length and 18 inches or so in diameter. It is very light and not too sweet.

Overall, Ramzan turned out to be a culinary delight. The range of food on offer at the street festival was mind boggling in quality and range, yet they were all very reasonably priced and served with a warmth and hospitality that was touching.