As one travels from the northern to the southern fringes of Kolkata, the eyes are soothed by the enormous stretch of greenery at the very heart of the city. Coupled with the greenery is an array of club tents, each with a rich legacy. Perhaps no other city of India enjoys this privilege nor can they boast of this heritage. This is stretch of greenery is popularly known as the ‘Maidan’, also referred to as the lungs of Kolkata. It is an open space dotted with trees and spread over 1,000 acres in the centre of Kolkata. It has for more than two centuries been claimed by every interest in the city - from tarot card readers, ear cleaners, magicians, mendicants, buskers and dog owners to political parties. When the Left rode to power in West Bengal in 1977, it was at a rally at the Maidan (also known as the Brigade Parade Ground) that the comrades declared their plans for the state. But more than anything else, this is home to the various sports clubs of Kolkata; some clubs being of national and international repute, scattered in various corners of the Maidan. The grass, the trees, the cool breeze all combine to revitalise a sporting spirit to all who resort here for games and sports. The wayfarers, the commuters, the rest-seekers - all become a natural spectator to the various sporting activity performed here.

It is sports clubs such as the Calcutta Ladies Golf Club that have had the longest presence at the Maidan - in their case, since 1891. Over 50 small and large clubs dot the greens, including the formidable presence of football clubs like Mohun Bagan, East Bengal and Mohammedan Sporting. Each comprises a small temporary tent structure because the legal owner of the Maidan, the Indian Army, disallows permanent construction. The tents remain closed for 15 days in a year. There is a private lawn and a practice field that is often shared between clubs. These tents are unique in structure for they accommodate several facilities including gymnasium and canteen. The structures have been present for so many years; some have also worn out with the chariot of time. However, their charms have not been obliterated. They still attract people, particularly those who are new to the ‘city of joy’. To them it is a strange sight because in no other Indian city such a sprawling area which is in possession of the Indian Army is so easily frequented by civilians. This is also a kind of colonial legacy carried from the days of the British Raj. Most of these tents bearing clubs have their origin during British days when the colonial masters entertained themselves with sports and culinary delicacies sitting in the baking sun during winter or in the pleasant zephyrs of summer evenings.

The Ladies Golf Club was established as a mark of protest against the male-dominated Royal Calcutta Golf Club, which used to disallow women - even the wives of British officers - from teeing off. Sitting on one of the wooden benches which is a common feature in most of these tents you can hear the birds chirp, horses neigh in the distance. Many of these club tents have a green clubhouse with a bright red sloping roof adding to the charm. Wizened teak-covered walls and floor with thick upholstery mark the architecture of these tents where in some noted cases, Burma teak-framed Belgian mirror resonate with heritage of the clubs. 

There are some clubs like Taltala Institute, a club founded in 1914. Like the Bhawanipore, Kalighat and Howrah Union clubs at the Maidan, Taltata Institute took its name from Kolkata neighbourhoods: “localities with a strong culture in sports". Actually these clubs bear a historical narration of the gradual evolution of sports in the city of Calcutta. Even when Calcutta metamorphosed to Kolkata the sporting spirit remained unaltered. Then there is the Measurers Club established in 1902. This club was born out of the weights and measures department of the Bengal Chamber of Commerce and Industry, which would measure and weigh the cargoes shipped across the world from Calcutta Port and make freight calculations.

The Maidan and its tents have clubs of historical importance of national and international repute. Take the Calcutta Press Club was instance. Established in 1945, the Calcutta Press Club is the first Press Club in the subcontinent. Individuals of national and global stature have graced the corridors of the club with their presence. Interestingly, this place played a major role in determining the course of Bangladesh Liberation War in1971. When we talk about the history of Indian football, the first name that comes to our mind is that of Mohun Bagan, the National Club of India. Along with Mohun Bagan, East Bengal and Mohammedan Sporting complete the famous trio of Indian football. All these clubs with their club tents display the enthusiasm for games and sports. This trio in combination with so many other clubs of the maidan captivates the imagination of all who drown themselves in the passion of sports. To consider the club tents of Maidan as mere structures is definitely a misnomer of truth. They are as palpable as living beings. The walls of these tents resound either with the jocund of victory or with the despair of defeat. Hundreds have spent their afternoons and evenings in the enclosure of these tents which have been silent witness to many moments of life. Sporting heroes have been born inside the grounds of these tents as these grounds also testify to the birth and death of dreams; of expectations. The roar of the crowd pulsates as emotions swell in the air.

One of the most associated images that haunt many of us, particularly when we think about the tents of is one of the Kolkata Mounted Police. Their personnels are seen training every morning at its premises behind the Press Club, a disciplined affair of the mounties and their stallions. In another corner of the Maidan towards the Park Street crossing, the Calcutta Kennel Club sees dozens of well-bred pets being trained in every conceivable kind of doggy conduct. Thrice during the winter months, this club established in 1906 witnesses Great Danes, Rottweilers, Dachshunds and Setters vying for top position at the dog show. Close at hand is the Armenian Sports Club, representing an early Kolkata community whose population has dwindled over the years. There is hardly any Parsee member to be seen in the 103-year-old Parsee Club either. With the gradual exodus of these communities from Kolkata, these clubs have also become a shadow of their glorious past. The 125-year-old Rangers Club still celebrate the flavour and spirit of Anglo-Indian life of Kolkata.

A study of the tents of Kolkata Maidan unfurls the variegated nature of the clubs who inhabit them. On one hand you have social clubs like the Dahousie Athletic Club; then there are educational institutions like Calcutta University which also has their presence here; The Calcutta Referees’ Association, PWD West Bengal, Calcutta Customs, Indian Airlines, Police Club – all enjoy their presence at the Kolkata Maidan with club tents. These are more of office clubs with sporting facilities. To talk about the club –tents without mentioning about wine and dine is like omitting salt from food. Many of the club tents have restaurant and bar facilities for their members and guests. Some have canteen facility are open to all. Here you have plenty of food options ranging from the humble bread-butter-toast to chicken stew; fish fry, vegetable chop and moghlai paratha accompanied with tea and coffee. On the way back from work, many people are seen savouring these delicacies sitting on the benches, in the company of their friends and colleagues. The quality, price and taste of food cater to the pleasure of the customers. Afternoons and evenings throng with the voices of the visitors who shake off their daily tiredness while relishing the cuisine on offer in these tents. 

From Calcutta to Kolkata, this journey has definitely changed many facades of the social life of the city. No wonder that winds of change has also affected the tales born inside these clubs tents. But even today when we visit the vicinity of the Maidan, we cannot but notice these beautiful club tents. They have not only survived the onslaught of time, but confidently carry forward a tradition of social mixing.