Kumartuli Ghat

 

The real essence of Kolkata lies in it's ghats. Unless one has visited the various ghats of Kolkata, I believe, one's understanding of the city and its culture, however intense, is incomplete. The sheer name of this ghat invokes a sense of devotion to all Bengalis for it is the kumor (specialised potters) of the area who are carrying on Kolkata’s quintessential Durga Puja down generations. Presenting you the city’s iconic Kumartuli (or Coomertolly) Ghat.

 

Route

 

To visit Kumartuli Ghat, proceed north-bound by Chittaranjan Avenue. From Shri Aurobindo Sarani (Gray Street) Crossing, turn left to enter Sovabazar Street. Proceed straight crossing BK Paul Avenue till you reach the Rabindra Sarani. Turn right to enter Rabindra Sarani and proceed straight till you reach Kumartuli. Turn left into Durga Charan Banerjee Street, drive straight, passing Kumartuli on left, till you reach the Circular Railway Line. Cross the tracks to find the Sutanuti Police Outpost adjoining the Kumartuli Ghat on the Strand Bank Road. To the north of the ghat is Kashi Mitra Smashan (burial) Ghat.

 

The Ghat

 

Believed to have been built by Raja Nabakrishna Deb of Sovabazar, the ghat was originally called Rajar Ghat. A distinct pavilion in cream, the ghat is a standalone quay – a characteristic feature of the ghat. At the top of the pavilion is a board that reads ‘Coomertolly Ghat For Bathing’. The pavilion has two grilled entrances from the Strand Bank Road and two on the other side which opens into the river.

 

On its left there is a changing room, beyond which is a flanked seating area with broad seats for senior citizens. On the right, the patch of land filled with leftover idols and garbage is an eyesore to the aesthetics.

 

Two sets of stairs descend down either side of the ghat to join the Ganges. At the centre, a neatly paved area with iron railings makes for a beautiful watch-point. In the middle of the pavilion is an unkempt Shiva Temple, probably constructed by the encroachers, blocking the river view from the road.

 

History

 

Originally known as Rajar Ghat, the ghat is said to have been built by Raja Nabakrishna Deb. This was the Raja’s private bathing ghat. For the ladies of the family, he had constructed a changing room on the first floor of the ghat which no longer exists. 

 

From making of the idols to kalabou snan – all the rituals of Sovabazar Rajbari (palace) Durga Pujas were performed at this ghat. It also included the bisarjan (immersion) of the idols of the Rajbari. 

 

Other than his contributions towards Durga Puja, Raja Nabakrishna Deb had also built a series of rooms for the ‘Gangayatris’ (moribunds) on this ghat. Due to lack of maintenance, the rooms were eventually brought down. 

 

The ghat has also seen several eminent personalities of yesteryears apart from the royals. It is said that when Ramkrishna Paramahamsa showed signs of insanity, Rani Rashmoni had arranged to send him to Ganagaprasad Sen (1824-1896), the most celebrated practitioners of his times, from Dakshineswar for treatment. Ramkrishna would land on this ghat and walk down to Gangaprasad Bhavan, which stood right opposite the ghat. A plaque in the seating area adjoining the ghat is a proof of the same.

 

According to Krishnapriya Dasgupta, a senior journalist and historian, based on his interactions with the earlier generations of the Sens, when the ladies of Gangaprasad Bhavan went to the ghat for bathing, the railway tracks were closed for passage of trains.    

  

He also narrated an interesting history on how the ghat got its name. Calcutta saw its first ever "Sharadiya" Durga Puja in the year 1757 with the ceremonial Durga Pujas of the Sovabazar Rajbari. It is said that after emerging victorious in the Battle of Plassey, Robert Clive had rewarded Nabakrishna Deb with the district of Sutanuti. To celebrate the occasion, the Raja had relocated the potters of Gobindapur (now Maidan) to Sutanuti. The kumors were regular potters making clay pots and utensils who were given a dedicated area at Kumartuli on the banks of the Ganges. On the Raja’s orders, they began to make idols of Goddess Durga and thus began the tradition of Durga Puja in the city.

 

The strategic location helped the potters to collect the special clay (etel mati) from the the Ganges which was used in the making of the idols. Other raw materials used in the idol making such as the straw (dried hay) was stacked on boats, while the bamboos were tied to the boats and allowed to float on water. These materials were thus loaded from distant villages and unloaded at the Kumartuli Ghat to facilitate idol making.

Initially, the Pals of Calcutta were involved in the making of the idols. As Durga Puja gained impetus, more and more pujas were being performed. The demand for the idols gradually increased. Potters from Krishnanagar migrated to Calcutta via the riverine and joined the Pals at Kumartuli. Eventually, the Rudra Pals of Dhaka also arrived at Calcutta to live in Kumartuli and hence the name.   

Life at Ghat

The pavilion of the ghat is used by the devotees who come to take a dip in the holy river. Some are seen busy with their daily chores while others spend some quiet moments standing on the paved quay.

Walking down a few steps northwards, is the other part of the ghat. Here you will come across a broad flight of stairs running down from the road to merge with the water. As you stand on the red sandstone stairway, bamboo stacks are seen floating on the water and piles of hay being unloaded from boats.

 

It is amazing to learn how the ceremonial worship of Goddess Durga has brought the skilled kumors under one roof with the Kumartuli Ghat serving as their lifeline in Kolkata.