As we navigated the narrow, winding, dingy lanes of Cossipore, eerie forms of crumbling factories leered down at us. So, drawing close to the far end of the alley, the sudden magical appearance of the vast expanse of the Ganges was a pleasant shock . And plumb in the middle of the quay that once witnessed the clash between the Plebeian and the Patrician, was the historic Chitpore Ghat – a tribute to the voice of the commons. [have put caps at beg of the two words because no ref given here – given later]

Route:

Chitpore Ghat is located in North Kolkata. To visit the ghat, start from Esplanade, proceed north-bound by Chittaranjan Avenue / Jatindra Mohan Avenue / Girish Avenue, crossing Shyambazar A V School to continue straight and cross the Chitpore Bridge. Take the left just before the Cossipore Flyover to enter 1, Nawab Patty Lane and proceed till you reach Cossipore Shri Sanatan Dharma School. Take left to enter Dilarjung Road with Ash Croft Jute Press Cossipore on the right and proceed till you reach a 4-point crossing. Take the right to enter the Chitpore Ghat Lane and drive through the narrow lane with jute mills and industries lining either side of the road till you reach the Chitpore Strand Bank Road, with the Chitpore Ghat right before you, opposite Krishna Mineral and Talco Industries. Cars may be parked in the lane by the ghat.

 

The Ghat:

Christened Indira Ghat in 1985, the Chitpore Ghat of yore is an important venue in the history of Kolkata. There may not be much that can be deemed significant or outstanding about its structure but it is here that, for the first time, the city witnessed the commoners stand up for their rights. It was then an ordinary embankment with no momentous colonnade in particular, just a flight of steps descending to the river, the landing for the goods meant for import-export.

Today, the Ghat looks beautiful in its all-new avatar. The wide open view from a distance is attractive. The pillars in black and white tiles and the granite seats with tinned canopies are rather picturesque . There is a Shiva Temple on the right, while a flanked terrace-like elevated area on the left overlooking the river is just the right place for a philosopher to spend ‘happy hour’ in. A broad flight of stairs in red sandstone descend to merge with the river. There is also a changing room for daily bathers on one end of the stairs.

Adjoining the ghat is a beautifully manicured park with large trees and several canopies fixed over granite seats.  One can imagine spending peaceful leisurely moments here. Another flight of stairs descends from the park to merge with the river. Sitting on the stairs you can watch the ferries leaving the Bagbazar Jetty and heading towards Serampore or Babooghat. KMC’s effort in resurrecting and beautifying the banks of the Ganges to preserve the rich heritage of the city is commendable. 

 

   

History:

In 1775-76, Colonel William Tolly, an officer of the British East India Company, dug out an old channel of Adi Ganga (a branch of Hugli) at his own cost to make it navigable for ships. This canal (nullah) became operational in 1777 and came to be known as Tolly's Nullah. Tolly de-silted, deepened and opened this old channel as a waterway connecting the Calcutta Port to the rivers of the Eastern Bengal, thus making the hinterland of Districts of Bengal, Eastern Bengal and Assam connect with Port of Calcutta.

In June, 1788, two types of taxes were levied in Kolkata: The Government Tax and Kolkata Tax. The levy of Kolkata tax was lifted in 1795, to be once again imposed from May 1801.  It was thus declared that all goods imported and exported through Tolly Canal would be taxable. The following were the tax rates levied on various segments:

Tax	Rate
On all types of products / commodities	1%
On asset / wealth worth ten lakh	1%
On a single boat	1 anna
On a boat carrying 100 mun (4 ton) load	4 annas
On a boat carrying 100 mun (4 ton) light weight but high volume goods	2 rupees
On brokerage for sale of necessary goods and commodities	1%

 

In 1784-85, this ghat on Bagbazar-Chitpore Bridge was at first known as ‘No. 1 Chitpore Ghat’ and later in 1792-93 as ‘Chitpore Bridge Ghat.’ (PS: The then Chitpore Bridge was constructed over the Maratha Ditch and not over the present Bagbazar Canal). However, in 1852-56, the ghat was called ‘Chitpore Toll House’ or ‘Chitpore Permit Ghat.’ This is because, to carry out import and export of goods through the Tolly Canal, the permit had to be obtained from the Chitpore Permit Ghat at Bagbazar. The ghat was thus constructed, mention of which can be seen in the map of 1856.

In the early 19^th century, the Bagbazar Canal, connecting Bagbazar to Chitpore, used to be packed with boats loaded with consignment. The Canal had connectivity with Burra Bazar, Chitpore, Narkeldanga, Beleghata, Tollygunge and Khidirpore and many parts of Bangladesh. By the mid-19^th century, many farmaan (regulations) were imposed on the majhis (boatmen) and the mahajans (money lenders).

Initially, there was a suppressed excitement among the boatmen, who later expressed their frustrations and eventually, infuriated by the farmaan, they united and called for a strike.

It is in this ghat that the boatmen protested against the levy of taxes on boats by the government and promised to quit sailing. A hundred boats were stalled at Habra. Useful commodities such as rice, firewood, etc., could not be transported. Thus, the prices of the commodities increased, thereby affecting the life of the denizens. The report of the strike was published on 2 August, 1856 in the daily, ‘Samvad Bhaskar.’

Money lenders too united and called for a strike in front of the Government House.  At least 500 people assembled and shouted slogans before his Lordship[can we give a name here?]. Later they submitted their grievances in writing. The strike had major repercussions in the British Government, the effect of which was published again in ‘Samvad Bhaskar’ on 12 August, 1856. Eventually, the tax was lifted.

 

Life at Ghat:

The remnants of the old, decaying factories along the narrow winding alleys of Cossipur may be a grim reminder of the heady days when Kolkata led in glory and enterprise. But if you can brave the narrow twists and turns to come to the other end of the road, you are sure to be rewarded for your perseverance. The view of the expansive river front is guaranteed to leave you inspired. Today, the dampened ardour to visit amongst even genuine city lovers has led to the ignominy of the ghats of Kolkata. If you decide to grace the Chitpore Ghat with your presence, spare a moment for the simple majhis of bygone era. The fierce fight for identity, for survival, against the perceived wrong of unfair taxation and regulations, can serve as a source of inspiration for us. Those of us who are floundering a little today might find a definitive roadmap of life  - chalked out in the story of their battle against the combined might of the empire. Lost in their haunting river song, you too can choose to rise above the transient nature of worldly relationships in search of the reality – the truth of human life.  You too can get back in touch with the glory that was once ours, patented, signed, exclusively Kolkatan