Intro

On the one side the Hooghly, twisting, turning, unpredictable, carving  newer banks and paving newer paths in its course, unapologetic in its seeking out of its final destination. On the other side, the ghats, on its banks, are restful, quietly confident where they stand, vulnerable perhaps only to the ravages of time. And among these quiet proponents of history, a  ghat which rears its proud head tall yet humble against the onslaughts of  time is the Jagannath Ghat.

Route

Jagannath Ghat stands imposingly on the east bank of the river Hooghly, immediately to the south of the Prasanna Kumar Tagore Ghat. Located on the Strand Bank Road, opposite the Burra Bazar Circular Railway Station in the Posta area of North-west Kolkata, the ghat may be accessed through Strand Road, Strand Bank Road being closed to traffic. With a KMC Pumping station on the left and a Ram Mandir on the right, you may walk past a bunch of florists to enter the Jagannath Ghat.

The Ghat

It is impossible to imagine that this modest edifice once looked daunting with its huge cast iron grilles standing as pillars, eight on either side, converging to form an umbrella - roof flattened on the top. Sadly enough, most of the original work has been destroyed. To resurrect it from its decrepit state, brick walls have been constructed around the iron pillars to give the structure support.

Many other additions and alterations have also been made over the years. New steps have been added to the ghat, as the tidal pattern of the river has altered, and platforms are being constructed inside the structure, providing shelter to a group of daily wage earners. The beauty and grandeur is now almost hidden beneath a clutter of hoardings and illegal constructions. There is also a Jagannath temple inside the ghat, though not the original one from where the ghat gets its name. Jagannath Ghat is presently being managed by the Kolkata Port Trust.

History

The Jagannath Ghat has special significance for the travellers to Puri. This ghat was made by Sobharam Basak, a rich trader and banker who became a millionaire by supplying textiles to the East India Company.  He was a devout Jagannath devotee who made annual pilgrimages to Puri along with a huge entourage of pilgrims. Sobharam built the ghat by the side of the Jagannath Temple which he had constructed at 1, Nabob Lane and thereafter called it the Jagannath Ghat. 

The ghat was founded sometime between 1758, when the rebuilding of the Fort William started, and 1773, the year Sobharam died. The Ghat was initially called Sobharam Basak’s Bathing Ghat, according to the List of Old Ghats published in 1789. Shortly after, the name changed into ‘Jagannath Ghat’ as seen in old accounts and maps of Hooghly River. The original construction of the ghat somewhat resembled the Jagannath Temple of Puri. The dome-shaped structure on the roof of the ghat resembled the wheel of a chariot. However, with the Hooghly changing its course, the original ghat was destroyed and a new one was constructed in the late 19^th century - which is how it stands today.

Interestingly, this ghat also has a nickname –‘Chhote Lal’s Ghat.’ There are some documents in support of the claim of Chote Lal, which shows that there was actually an active marine dispatch service station at Jagannath Ghat, managed by the Lals.

Chote Lal happened to be a member of the Chiranji Lal – Sham Lal family and had a leading role in running their family business of Steamer Cargo Service from Jagannath Ghat steamer station. It is said that it was Jagannath Ghat, from where Chote Lal conducted his business, which in due course earned it the nickname Chote Lal’s Ghat. However, today, most of the locals are unaware of this name.

Besides being a busy bathing ghat, the Jagannath Ghat was one of the busiest steam navigation stations on the Hooghly River. From the mid 1800’s, it was the embarkation and disembarkation points for the steamship services between Kolkata and Allahabad. The upcountry steamers, carrying both freight and passengers, brought pilgrims from Bhagalpur, Monghyr, Dinajpore, Ghazipur, Benares, and Mirzapur. By 1852, there was a regular sailing for Dacca and Assam too. The ghat apparently had a custom’s counter, (now in a ramshackle condition), which imposed duties on the inland goods brought to it by the cargoes.

Life at the Ghat

Walking down the Strand Bank Road northbound along the river, as you take the small alley on your left, you enter a whole new world – a world steeped in religious ritual, yet so full of life. The picture you are confronted with may be very different from that your imagination or prior knowledge of Jagannath Ghat may have suggested. A busy bathing ghat, the archaic architecture allures every visitor. With its wide entrance and extra-wide steps, the ghat houses two separate bathing sections for men and women.

People are seen trying to escape the heat as well as gain absolution with a dip in the cool waters of the Ganges; the less reverent can be seen washing and bathing. A few barbers with shops set up right at the entrance prosper from the constant footfall. An Oriya priest is seen to chant mantras in obeisance to the idol of Lord Jagannath. Regular aartis are conducted and prasad is distributed to the devotees.

Paritosh Sau, a daily wage earner from Odisha, sells flowers to the car owners and shop keepers in the morning, wishing them an ‘auspicious day’, finding refuge in the platforms of Jagannath Ghat. He came to Kolkata with a bunch of friends from a village near Cuttack. And every time the friends feel nostalgic about their hometown which they were compelled to leave  years ago in search of jobs, they find peace at the feet of Lord Jagannath, who they believe to be the true Provider.

What makes the Ghat so unique in its history? What about it compels one to visit it again – and yet again? How does a modest riverside structure inspire so much love in the people who frequent it? If you can spare the time one evening, as dusk settles in and a balmy air wafts its way insidiously into every crack and crevice, pay it a visit. Gently touch the paving stones and put your cheek to the cool pillars or walls. Sit on the banks and watch the flickering gleam of a lantern in a boat floating by at a distance. Or simply lie back and allow your thoughts to wing their way up to the stars. As Bob Dylan would say, ‘ The answer my friends is blowin’ in the wind, the answer is blowin’ in the wind...’